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	<title>Culture&#38;Stuff &#187; Historical Places</title>
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		<title>Is Paris Burning: Did a German General save the City of Light?</title>
		<link>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/02/12/is-paris-burning-did-a-german-general-save-the-city-of-light/</link>
		<comments>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/02/12/is-paris-burning-did-a-german-general-save-the-city-of-light/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Feb 2010 09:30:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Culture&#38; Stuff</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[20th Century]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[French History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Historical Places]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paris]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[world war 2]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cultureandstuff.com/?p=264</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
In February 1943, there was nothing in Stalingrad but the ghost of a city. The scale of the battle that had raged for the past seven months was so unimaginable that it is nearly impossible to talk about it without resorting to empty cliché. There are the figures, of course &#8211; 850,000 Axis casualties, 1.1 [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wide"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-265" title="Von Choltitz in Paris" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/isparisburningtop.jpg" alt="How German General von Choltitz saved Paris" width="751" height="220" /></div>
<p>In February 1943, there was nothing in Stalingrad but the ghost of a city. The scale of the battle that had raged for the past seven months was so unimaginable that it is nearly impossible to talk about it without resorting to empty cliché. There are the figures, of course &#8211; 850,000 Axis casualties, 1.1 million Soviet &#8211; which make this a strong contender for the title of deadliest battle in human history. But such numbers are incomprehensible in any real sense. The further you sub-divide these overarching statistics, to reveal, for example,the 40,000 Soviet civilians killed in one week of bombing, or the 13,500 Soviet soldiers executed by their own leaders during the fighting, the more you seem to be able to glimpse the hell of the battle.</p>
<p>In November of 1943, a plane flew over Stalingrad carrying Soviet diplomats journeying to meet their British and American counterparts. One passenger, Valentin Berezhkov, recorded what he saw.</p>
<blockquote><p>We pressed to the windows in silence&#8230; First individual houses scattered in the snow came into view, and then a kind of unbelievable chaos began: lumps of walls, boxes of half-ruined buildings, piles of rubble, isolated chimneys&#8230; Visible against the snow were the black figures of people&#8230;&#8217;</p></blockquote>
<p>Flash forward to Paris on 25th August 1944. Anyone flying over this city on that day would have witnessed a very different scene. Paris is still there. Damaged, certainly, and neglected, but still quintessentially and recognisably herself. From the window of the plane, you can still see barricades, trenches dug into the streets, trees felled on the boulevards. Many buildings are riddled with bullet holes, and the elegant, graceful Grand Palais is smouldering. But the battle has been won in only six days, and though several thousand people died in the fiercest fighting, the contrast between the liberation of Paris and the battle for Stalingrad could hardly be more marked.</p>
<p>This, unsurprisingly, was not part of Hitler&#8217;s plan. The Führer had several times issued orders that Paris must not be abandoned without a fight to the death. On 23rd August, he commanded,</p>
<blockquote><p>The city must not fall into the enemy&#8217;s hand except lying in complete debris.</p></blockquote>
<p>Explosives had been primed in strategic and iconic locations around Paris, to ensure that if the Germans were forced to withdraw, they would leave nothing behind.</p>
<p>So why was this plan never carried out &#8211; who saved Paris? Since the day of liberation, two divergent versions of what happened in Paris that August have emerged, that go right to the heart of the many myths that flock around Paris and its liberation like moths around candlelight.</p>
<div class="vert">
<div id="attachment_275" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 250px"><img class="size-full wp-image-275 " title="General Von Choltitz: Saviour of Paris?" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/generalvoncholtitzsavedparis.jpg" alt="General Von Choltitz: Saviour of Paris?" width="240" height="362" /><p class="wp-caption-text">General von Choltitz</p></div>
</div>
<p>The first is, at base, your classic Parisian love story, with an unlikely leading man in the shape of German General Dietrich von Choltitz. Von Choltitz became the governor of Paris on 7th August 1944, and was the man responsible for carrying out Hitler&#8217;s orders, even (according to legend) receiving a screaming phone call from the Führer, demanding &#8216;<em>Brennt Paris?</em>&#8216; (Is Paris Burning?). There was nothing in von Cholitz&#8217;s past to suggest that he would do anything other than follow these orders to the letter. In 1940 and 41 both Sevastopol and Rotterdam were destroyed on von Cholitz&#8217;s orders.  He apparently had no qualms about executing Resistance fighters in Paris, and, in a conversation secretly recorded whilst he was being held as a prisoner of war, von Choltitz admitted &#8220;executing the most difficult order of my life in Russia, (&#8230;) liquidation of the Jews. I have executed this order in its entirety nonetheless&#8230;&#8221;. He also issued the order to burn the Grand Palais on 23rd August 1944.</p>
<p>But on 25th August, von Cholitz surrendered Paris to the Allies, in direct contravention of his orders. None of the explosives had been detonated. And when De Gaulle paraded down the Champs-Élysées, it was through a sea of smiling faces, not the blackened wasteland of Hitler&#8217;s directives. So can it be that, at some pivotal moment, von Choltitz simply could not bring himself to carry out his orders, deciding he&#8217;d rather betray his leaders and surrender than see Paris destroyed? This is the version of events suggested by von Choltitz&#8217;s son, who claimed that his father realised the war was lost, and decided to prevent unnecessary bloodshed and destruction to the city. This idea is tempting, romantic even, but surely wide of the mark. In von Choltitz&#8217;s own account, he stated simply<em> </em></p>
<blockquote><p>If for the first time I had disobeyed, it was because I knew that Hitler was insane</p></blockquote>
<p>Moreover, an experienced military man like von Choltitz would have recognised how disastrous Stalingrad had been for all sides, and seen the value in avoiding a repeat of those events.</p>
<p>The alternative version of events refuses to give con Choltitz even this much credit. Resistance member Maurice Kriegel-Valrimont argued in 2004 that von Choltitz wrought us much death and destruction on Paris and its citizens as he could, &#8220;and when he ceased to kill them it was because he wasn&#8217;t able to do so any longer&#8221;. Kriegel-Valrimont shudders at any attempt to paint von Choltitz as the saviour of Paris, and insists that it was Pierre Taittinger, chairman of the municipal council, who convinced him not to detonate the explosives around the city.</p>
<p>Two very different stories then. In one, a hardened Nazi is struck all too late by the futility and insanity of the war he has fought, and adds his name to the long list of Parisian heroes. In the other, the Parisians themselves are solely responsible for throwing off the rule of their alien, resented occupiers, who sought nothing but their destruction right up to the end. The truth must inevitably be found somewhere between the two. Von Choltitz was certainly no romantic hero, and it seems highly unlikely that he sought to &#8217;save&#8217; Paris for its own sake. More likely, this practical man genuinely did realise that Hitler&#8217;s time was coming to an end, and determined to get things over with as quietly and efficiently as possible. But despite the legitimate protestations of many French historians, the fact remains that there must, surely, have been a window of opportunity for von Choltitz to carry out his orders, press that button and set off explosions all over Paris. That button was never pressed &#8211; that&#8217;s the fact, cold and undeniable, and the legacy of some combination of the actions of both von Choltitz and those Parisians who fought for their city.</p>
<p>So the brilliant, uniform beauty of Paris remained, the City of Light apparently undimmed. But even as De Gaulle marched triumphantly down the Champs-Élysées, and the crackly sound of the <em>Marseillaise</em> once again echoed down the streets after four forbidden years, a process of soul-searching and recrimination was already beginning. There were some deeply unpleasant questions that needed to be asked about the last few years. Why had it taken so long for Paris to shake off its occupiers? Had life in Paris under the Germans been a bit too easy? Most troubling of all &#8211; who had collaborated? Deep down, had <em>everyone</em> collaborated? These questions were made all the more uncomfortable by the unavoidable comparisons between still-dazzling Paris and the scenes of devastation in many of the other cities of Europe. German occupation may have ended, but the damage and pain it could inflict on Paris and Parisians had not disappeared with von Choltitz.</p>
<p>I think I feel another post coming on&#8230;</p>
<blockquote><p>Further Reading</p></blockquote>
<p>Paris</p>
<ul>
<li><em><strong><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0140282920?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0140282920">Paris: Biography of a City</a> </strong></em><strong>by Colin Jones</strong><em><strong><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0140282920" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /> </strong></em>Superb, detailed and comprehensive history of the city, from before it was even Paris to modern times.</li>
<li><em><strong><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0141011130?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0141011130">Paris: The Secret History</a><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0141011130" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /> </strong></em><strong>by Andrew Hussey </strong>A more social take on the history of Paris, with plenty of evocative detail.</li>
</ul>
<p>Stalingrad</p>
<ul>
<li><em><strong><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0141032405?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0141032405">Stalingrad</a><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0141032405" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /> by Antony Beevor</strong></em><strong> </strong>As big, clever and moving as popular history gets.</li>
</ul>
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		<title>Queen Victoria’s Black Sheep: Prince Eddy and the Ripper Rumours, Part 2</title>
		<link>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/02/08/queen-victoria%e2%80%99s-black-sheep-prince-eddy-and-the-ripper-rumours-part-2/</link>
		<comments>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/02/08/queen-victoria%e2%80%99s-black-sheep-prince-eddy-and-the-ripper-rumours-part-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Feb 2010 14:29:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Culture&#38; Stuff</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[19th Century]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Biography]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[British History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Historical Places]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Royal History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jack the ripper]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Prince Albert Victor]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[social history]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cultureandstuff.com/?p=224</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
As we saw in Part 1 of this story, there are many theories on the real identity of Jack the Ripper doing the rounds, which range from the hypothetically plausible to the palpably absurd. Delving a little deeper, it is interesting to note how many of the suspects suggested over the years involve highly respected [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wide"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-206" title="Queen Victoria's Black Sheep: Prince Eddy and Jack the Ripper Rumours" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/princealbertvictoreddytop.jpg" alt="Prince Albert Victor 'Eddy'" width="751" height="220" /></div>
<p>As we saw in <a href="http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/02/04/queen-victoria%E2%80%99s-black-sheep-prince-eddy-and-the-ripper-rumours-part-1/" target="_self">Part 1</a> of this story, there are many theories on the real identity of Jack the Ripper doing the rounds, which range from the hypothetically plausible to the palpably absurd. Delving a little deeper, it is interesting to note how many of the suspects suggested over the years involve highly respected figures from the very top of Victorian society. Perhaps this should not be entirely surprising, as there is a strong and distinct social element in the Jack the Ripper story and its lasting emotional resonance. The Ripper scandal drew attention to the squalor and abject poverty of the East End of London where the murders took place, and the extreme inequalities that riddled complacent Victorian society. <a href="http://victorianpeeper.blogspot.com/search?q=ripper" target="_blank">Recently uncovered census records</a> have revealed that in 1881 (7 years before the murders took place) several of the Ripper&#8217;s victims were living with husbands and families. Presumably, in the years before 1888, these marriages must have disintegrated, with consequences for the abandoned women that eventually led them into prostitution.</p>
<p>There is a case to be made that part of the outrage over the murders was (and is) prompted not just by the barbarity of the acts themselves, but also by a feeling of shared guilt, that society as a whole could allow fellow human beings to fall so low and be forced into such dangerous and degrading means of survival. In this version of the narrative, it is fitting that many should seek to cast the grandees of Victorian Society in the role of Jack the Ripper. The story seems to work better (and certainly have more moral impact) if the Ripper was socially the polar opposite of his victims, his calculated murders being only an extreme, twisted version of polite society&#8217;s cold indifference. This perspective on events has developed over time. Contemporary suspects more often than not lived amongst, and in similar conditions to, their supposed victims, and included many immigrants, and known domestic murderers. As time has passed, however, new information on the always shifting, historically invisible community of Whitechapel has become harder and harder to obtain, necessitating perhaps a shift away from simple homicide on a human, local scale, and towards grand conspiracy theories and elaborate whodunit yarns, with ever more unlikely culprits.</p>
<p>Given this line of investigation, there could be no more perfect candidate for Jack than a royal, and it so happens that the contemporary royal brood had a black sheep who could quite easily be made to fit the bill, and has been the subject of not one but three distinct Ripper theories. Prince Albert Victor (always known as Eddy) was grandson to Queen Victoria and son of Prince Albert Edward, and as such stood to inherit the throne on the death of his father. But somehow, even amongst the Hanoverians (for whom <a href="http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/01/14/frederick-the-hated-prince/" target="_blank">spectacularly fractured and unhappy families were something of a tradition</a>), Eddy seems particularly awkward, never quite fitting the role he was destined to play. He was an odd, listless character. Opinions vary over his lack of intelligence, but the argument is only over its extent not its existence, with assessments ranging from his tutor&#8217;s report that his mind was &#8216;abnormally dormant&#8217;, to persistent but unverified rumours that he had learning disabilities. Lack of intelligence was, however, no impediment to a young prince gaining admission to Cambridge, and he was helpfully excused from examinations during his time there from 1883 to 85.</p>
<div class="vert">
<div id="attachment_237" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><img class="size-full wp-image-237" title="Prince Albert Victor (Eddy)" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Prince_Albert_Victor_Duke_of_Clarence_1864-1892_by_William_1829-18__and_Daniel_Downey_18_-1881.jpg" alt="Prince_Albert_Victor,_Duke_of_Clarence_(1864-1892)_by_William_(1829-18_)_and_Daniel_Downey_(18_-1881" width="300" height="459" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Prince Albert Victor (Eddy). What secrets are hidden by that impeccably moustachioed smile?</p></div>
</div>
<p>As he entered adulthood, Eddy found himself in the unusual position of being simultaneously renowned as a ladies man and reviled as a homosexual. In 1889, his name became involved in the Cleveland Street Scandal, in which it emerged that several high-profile figures (including an Equerry to the Prince of Wales) were clients at a male brothel. All homosexual acts between men were illegal at this time, and punishable by up to two years&#8217; imprisonment with hard labour, so these were serious accusations. However, it seems there was no evidence linking Eddy to the establishment, and his name was probably only thrown into the mix to distract attention from those who had actually been involved. Keen to avoid a scandal (having already created quite enough of his own), Eddy&#8217;s father stepped in to make the matter go away, effectively ending the investigation  into the affair. This ultimately seems to have done more harm than good, the cover-up encouraging gossips to believe that Eddy did in fact have something to hide. Certainly, whispers of homosexuality (which seem to have very little grounding other than this case) have clung to him ever since.</p>
<p>Like his father, it seems Eddy also had dalliances with a string of women, leading to other scandals, including Margery Haddon&#8217;s (almost certainly false) claim that he was the father of her son, and subsequent blackmailing by the &#8217;son&#8217; himself. In 1891, he was also blackmailed by two prostitutes who claimed to be in possession of compromising letters written in his hand. Though these claims, too, are now thought to have been fraudulent, there is little doubt that Eddy had his fair share of amatory adventures, and it is has been widely claimed that at some stage he contracted a venereal disease, possibly gonorrhoea.</p>
<p>The increasingly vexed question of Eddy&#8217;s eminent unsuitability to ever assume the crown was abruptly resolved in 1892, when he died, suddenly. The cause of death was officially recorded as influenza, though the shocking timing of his death, aged just 28, has prompted further conspiracy theories that he was poisoned, or pushed off a cliff, or that his death was faked in order to remove him from the succession.</p>
<p>Mix all of these elements together and you have a stew whose peppery aromas would attract any Young Turk looking to make his mark and his fortune on the Jack the Ripper scene. Although there is no evidence of anyone making the connection at the time of the murders, Eddy has subsequently become the linchpin of several theories.</p>
<blockquote><p>Theory One: The Lone Madman</p></blockquote>
<p>This theory, originally popularised by Dr Thomas Stowell in 1970, did not name Eddy directly, but there is enough evidence in his explanation to make it clear who he is referring to. According to this account, Eddy was suffering from syphilis, exotically contracted in the West Indies, which drove him mad and set him on the murderous course of Jack the Ripper. The royal family is said to have known that Eddy was the killer from at least the second murder, but did not act until after the fourth, when he was locked away in an asylum. He somehow escaped to murder Mary Jane Kelly, at which point he was re-interred and died of &#8217;softening of the brain&#8217; in a private mental hospital at Sandringham.</p>
<p>Stowell died shortly after publishing this theory, and his papers were destroyed by his family. This has made many elements of the story impossible to substantiate. More damagingly, official records show that Eddy was not in London on the murder dates (but then, they would do, wouldn&#8217;t they?).</p>
<p>The theory was elaborated by Frank Spiering, who claimed to have seen notes of royal physician Sir William Gull, in which he described hypnotising Eddy and watching in horror as he acted out the Ripper murders. When the New York Academy of Medicine, Spiering&#8217;s stated source for this material, claimed that it had no such records, Spiering went on to challenge the Queen to throw open the royal archives and publicly reveal the truth about Eddy&#8217;s murderous secret. When the royal household said they would gladly allow Spiering access to the archives (as they will to anyone who applies), Spiering stroppily replied that he didn&#8217;t want to see the files anyway, so there.</p>
<p><strong>Bunkometer Rating:</strong> A theory which, aside from being based on a paper trail which no-one can prove exists, seems to offer no tangible connection between Eddy and the murders, other than that he had a sexually transmitted disease and therefore must have despised all women madly, and killed a string of them. Codswallop.</p>
<blockquote><p>Theory Two: Eddy As Jack&#8217;s Muse</p></blockquote>
<div class="vert">
<div id="attachment_239" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 210px"><img class="size-full wp-image-239" title="James Kenneth Stephen" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Jkstephenoval.jpg" alt="James Kenneth Stephen - Jack the Ripper?" width="200" height="253" /><p class="wp-caption-text">James Kenneth Stephen</p></div>
</div>
<p>Accepting that the idea of Eddy as Jack the Ripper has colander-level water-holding abilities, but unwilling to leave him out of the story entirely, another theory has emerged with Eddy the unlikely inspiration for enough searing sexual jealousy to fuel the fires of history&#8217;s most infamous serial killer. This theory, advocated by Michael Harrison, centres around James Kenneth Stephen, a poet, and Eddy&#8217;s tutor at Cambridge (as well as cousin of Virginia Woolf).</p>
<p>Stephen was undoubtedly an unusual character, and any hint of being a little bit odd is blood in the water for your second-rate Ripper researcher. It is undeniable that some of Stephen&#8217;s poetry did contain a misogynistic streak. Take, for example, his poem <em>In the Backs</em>, which contains the following lines about a woman he comes across and takes an instant disliking to,</p>
<blockquote><p>&#8230;I do not want to see that girl again:<br />
I did not like her: and I should not mind<br />
If she were done away with, killed, or ploughed.<br />
She did not seem to serve a useful end :<br />
And certainly she was not beautiful.</p></blockquote>
<p>Chilling words, certainly, but is it any more than poetic hyperbole? Harrison certainly seems to think so. According to his version of events, Stephen fell passionately in love with Prince Eddy during his time at Cambridge, and Eddy initially responded to his advances, entering into a sexual relationship. Soon though, Eddy grew tired of Stephen, and took the excuse of his enrolment in the army to end the affair. Less controversially, two years later Stephen suffered a brain injury, as a result of either being hit by an object falling from a moving train, or far more romantically being thrown by his horse into the spinning vane of a windmill. Thus began a period of mental deterioration, culminating, says Harrison, in complete insanity.</p>
<p>Enraged by Eddy&#8217;s widely rumoured flings with women, whom he clearly lusted after in a way Stephen had never been able to inspire, Stephen determined to take his revenge on an entire gender by committing the Ripper murders. Precisely why Stephen should pick these East End prostitutes as way of hurting Eddy is not fully explained.</p>
<p><strong>Bunkometer Rating:</strong> This theory seems to be based on the apparently groundless belief in Eddy and Stephen&#8217;s homosexuality, and yet again relies on an implied and murky, yet clearly direct and unswayable, relationship between sex, madness and the murder of prostitutes. In going to far greater lengths to establish the suspect&#8217;s immorality and strangeness than any direct link to the murders, it&#8217;s as if the author is suggesting that, in effect, the former proves the latter. Crapola.</p>
<blockquote><p>Theory Three: The Royal Conspiracy</p></blockquote>
<p>Everyone likes a conspiracy, and this one is so juicy that it has gained a lot of ground in recent decades, and has frequently been portrayed in television, film and popular books.</p>
<p>Based on the claims of Joseph Gorman, this version of events holds that Eddy secretly married and had a child with a Alice Mary Crook, a Catholic shop assistant (of all things!) in the East End. On hearing of this brewing scandal, the royal family, including Victoria herself, formed an unholy alliance with (you guessed it) the Freemasons to cover up the awful mess. Key figures, including Lord Salisbury and, yet again, royal physician Sir William Gull, masterminded a plot to eliminate everyone who knew about Eddy&#8217;s child, and at the same time send a powerful coded message, broadcasting the abiding power of the freemasonry. For some reason, the motley crew stopped short of killing Alice, instead whisking her off to an asylum where Gull conducted experiments on her to make her forget what had happened, and plunge her into lunacy.</p>
<p><strong>Bunkometer Rating: </strong>Balderdash! Eddy plays only a supporting role in this one, his accepted profligacy making him a suitable donor of the wild royal oats needed to get this potboiler going. There are several gaping holes here: notably why was Alice not murdered, and how is it that the covering up of this ripe rumour only necessitated the killing of five women, all of them prostitutes? The final nail in the coffin should have been Joseph Gorman&#8217;s later admission that he had made the whole thing up, but the rumour is out in the wild now, and seemingly unstoppable.</p>
<p>What all of this seems to suggest is that the British, as affectionate as many of them are towards the royal family, take only a very little prompting to believe that this august and ancient institution has a dark, rotten heart, and a mind programmed entirely differently from our own. The fact that such flimsy theories, contradictory of each other and often of themselves, have gained any currency at all reflect our willingness to see the royals as characters in the vividly painted, infinitely flexible story of history rather than as fellow human beings, operating in a unique but real set of social circumstances. But then, we needn&#8217;t have looked to history to highlight that.</p>
<p>Anyone for another Diana enquiry?</p>
<blockquote><p>Further Reading</p></blockquote>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.casebook.org/" target="_blank">Casebook: Jack the Ripper (site)</a> &#8211; a refreshingly sober and sceptical but still engaging guide to the world of Ripperology.</li>
</ul>
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		<title>Site of the Week: Atlas Obscura, a compendium of curiousities from around the globe</title>
		<link>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/01/26/site-of-the-week-atlas-obscura/</link>
		<comments>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/01/26/site-of-the-week-atlas-obscura/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jan 2010 17:01:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Culture&#38; Stuff</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Historical Places]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Site of the Week]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[World History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[salzburg]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cultureandstuff.com/?p=162</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
It&#8217;s a well-worn, but absolutely true, travelling cliche that the best way to get to know a place is to get lost in it. The aim of most travel sites on the internet is to enable you to plan your trips better, separating the wheat from the chaff and ensuring that not a second is [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wide"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-163" title="Site of the Week: Atlas Obscura" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/atlasobscura.jpg" alt="History Travel Site of the Week" width="751" height="220" /></div>
<p>It&#8217;s a well-worn, but absolutely true, travelling cliche that the best way to get to know a place is to get lost in it. The aim of most travel sites on the internet is to enable you to plan your trips better, separating the wheat from the chaff and ensuring that not a second is wasted. Several Nazi Party rallies were less well planned than your average TripAdvisor aficionado&#8217;s holiday. <a href="http://atlasobscura.com/" target="_blank">Atlas Obscura</a> is different. It&#8217;s a worldwide database of interesting but obscure places, which anyone can join and contribute to. Using it, you feel like an armchair explorer, unearthing those serendipitous finds that make getting lost so much fun, and discovering great places you might otherwise never have known about.</p>
<p>Example: I recently visited Salzburg for the second time. It&#8217;s a smallish city, I&#8217;ve read a few guide books, and I was accompanied by Julie, a seasoned visitor to Sazlburg, so I smugly thought I had a pretty good handle on most of what&#8217;s worth seeing there. <em>Wrong</em>. A few minutes on this site wiped the smile off my face, revealing the existence of things I must have literally come within metres of but remained utterly oblivious to. There&#8217;s the <a href="http://atlasobscura.com/places/dom-museums-kunst-und-wunderkammer" target="_blank">Dom Museum</a> inside the stridently baroque Cathedral, which houses the restored Cabinet of Curiousities of the distinctly worldly Archbishop Wolf Dietrich ( who served from 1587 to 1612). There&#8217;s the magical water-powered mechanical theatre at Schloss Hellbrunn (which I had visited, but in winter when the theatre and the palace&#8217;s famous playing fountains are in hibernation). And, most intriguingly, there&#8217;s the skull in the <a href="http://atlasobscura.com/places/university-mozarteum" target="_blank">University Mozarteum</a>, said to have been lifted from the grave Mozart shared with 5 or 6 others, and claimed by some to be the bonce of the great composer himself. DNA tests have proved frustratingly inconclusive, but the skull bears the marks of a blow to the head sustained about a year before its owner shuffled off, which may explain the persistent headaches that plagued Mozart in the last year of his life.</p>
<p>The real joy of Atlas Obscura lies in the fact it&#8217;s not just a travel guide, but a compendium of places with stories to tell. Mercifully, the descriptions are free from irritating, overwrought, self-congratulating traveller&#8217;s tales, opting instead for good solid research and revealing explanation (as you might expect from a site co-founded by the author of the blinking marvellous <a href="http://curiousexpeditions.org/" target="_blank">Curious Expeditions</a> blog). Typical of this is the page on the <a href="http://atlasobscura.com/places/broad-street-cholera-pump" target="_blank">Broad Street Cholera Pump</a>, revealing how an innocuous looking water pump on a London street marks the spot where 500 people died in a single outbreak of cholera in 1854, prompting Dr John Snow to discover the link between the disease and London&#8217;s foul drinking water.</p>
<p>Atlas Obscura is a highly diverting read now, and I for one hope it continues to grow with input from the community, because this idea has the potential to become very exciting indeed.</p>
<p><em>The image used to illustrate this article is from Atlas Obscura&#8217;s page on the <a href="http://atlasobscura.com/places/globe-museum" target="_blank">Globe Museum</a> in Vienna. Now that sounds like a day out, how did I miss that? O why was I so blind? Curse my blinkers!<br />
</em></p>
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		<title>A King of Beasts in Revolutionary Paris</title>
		<link>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/01/22/a-king-of-beasts-in-revolutionary-paris/</link>
		<comments>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/01/22/a-king-of-beasts-in-revolutionary-paris/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 Jan 2010 16:28:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Culture&#38; Stuff</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[18th Century]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Animals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[British History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[French History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paris]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Royal History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[18th century]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[french revolution]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cultureandstuff.com/?p=116</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
I&#8217;ve just started reading the eclectic and lively Georgian London blog, and came across this piece about the menagerie at the Tower of London, which existed in various forms from 1252 until its closure in 1835, at which point its collection of animal inhabitants formed the basis for London Zoo.
The story of the menagerie (once [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wide"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-117" title="The story of an old lion in revolutionary Paris" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/liontop.jpg" alt="" width="751" height="220" /></div>
<p><!-- 		@page { margin: 2cm } 		P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } -->I&#8217;ve just started reading the eclectic and lively <a href="http://www.georgianlondon.com/" target="_blank">Georgian London</a> blog, and came across <a href="http://www.georgianlondon.com/crowly-who-is-now-grown-a-great-lion-and-very" target="_blank">this piece</a> about the menagerie at the Tower of London, which existed in various forms from 1252 until its closure in 1835, at which point its collection of animal inhabitants formed the basis for London Zoo.</p>
<p>The story of the menagerie (once you&#8217;ve managed to disable those parts of your brain sensitive to modern notions of health and safety, animal cruelty and basic common sense) is a dizzying carnival of unlikely experiences, which range from the sublimely ridiculous to the ridculously sublime. Picture, for example, the first resident of the menagerie; a polar bear, given as a gift from the King of Norway to the King of England. Although presumably fluffy, small and adorable to begin with (perhaps wrapped in a little bow), the gift soon grew into an almighty, boulder-pawed beast (as polar bears are so wont to do). Too large now for his strolls around the Tower, he was sent with his keeper to swim and catch fish in the river Thames.</p>
<p>This curious incident of the bear and his swim time seems to have set the tone for the menagerie, and as the delightful stories keep coming, the greater a tragedy it seems that there was no historical equivalent of Ben Fogle and Kate Humble to record them all in a sort of proto-<em>Animal Park</em>. Other residents of the Tower menagerie included Old Martin, the bear who put the grizzly back into grizzly bear, a lonely mongoose, monkeys bedecked in fine costumes, a plague of kangaroos (which apparently spread to other parts of England, until it was not at all uncommon to see kangaroos roaming around in parks) an elephant with a penchant for wine and a belligerent, beer-swilling zebra, who by all accounts was a much friendlier drunk.</p>
<p>There were also many Lions in the menagerie, whose chorus of roars at dawn came incongruously to mark the start of the day at the Tower of London. This put me in mind of another lion from another menagerie, whose wretched story is painfully revealing of the tensions and ironies that practically hummed in the air of revolutionary Paris.</p>
<p>This story is told in <em>The Journal of a Spy in Paris During the Reign of Terror</em>, a fascinating document which purports to have been recorded by one Raoul Hesdin (no doubt an assumed name), an English spy working for the French Government during the first half of 1794. No record can be found of anyone of this name in the employ of the government at the time, but the work rings with truth, and it seems safe to say that whoever he was, he was in Paris at the time, and in some position that gave him close access to the Committee of Public Safety, and all the important goings-on in this tumultuous period.</p>
<p>But despite this elevated position, it is the personal perspective offered by the journal that makes it such a fascinating and valuable source. The study of the revolution can so easily get bogged down in valiant attempts to chart and explain the ever-changing, immensely complicated shifts in the political tides, at the expense of an understanding of what it actually felt like to be an individual living through the vast impersonal processes of the Terror, of people&#8217;s perceptions of what was happening and where it was all leading, and ultimately what the point of it all was.</p>
<p>It seems that Hesdin once had some enthusiasm for the revolution, and was perhaps even swept up in its very early phases. In the time since then, however, this enthusiasm has clearly softened, waned and ultimately reversed upon itself. By early February 1794, he writes,</p>
<blockquote><p>I have little heart in such scenes for the compilation of a regular journal; if there were the least chance of my obtaining employment elsewhere or a passport to leave, I would leave this hideous shambles to-morrow. I am here to discover the secrets of a Government which has none, to unriddle mysteries when everything is but too patent, to assign causes to affects when <em>famine, hideous famine</em>, is the cause of everything. At times I console myself with the thought that I am taking part in a piece that will one day be read and re-read on History&#8217;s page &#8211; if, indeed, all History be not destroyed and the End of all things come.</p></blockquote>
<p>What seems to pain Hesdin most is the transformation that has taken hold of Paris, a city which once had clearly bewitched and entranced him, in a way that Paris through the ages seems to have had a unique capacity to do.</p>
<blockquote><p>I walked today under the chestnuts for an hour&#8230; The contrast to my youthful recollections of Paris moved me almost to tears. Nothing but the eternal white dust of the streets remains the same&#8230;</p>
<p>The ferment of minds in the salons, clubs, and coffee-houses, above all in the streets, was indescribable. People literally lived in the open air those two summers, and in &#8216;89 at every moment were seen horsemen dashing in with news from the Court or the Assembly at Versailles; orators declaiming on every chair and balustrade on the terrace. Now it is the silence of the grave</p></blockquote>
<p>He tells us of dance halls banned by the government, but which continued anyway in secret, shifting from place to place each night to avoid detection. He watches as great books and priceless pictures sell for nothing, all vestiges of the past having &#8216;become objects of derision&#8217;. Most chillingly, he one day observes that guillotinings have become so much a part of the day that guards have had to be posted at the scaffolds to stop children from playing on it.</p>
<p>In the middle of all this comes the tale of an old grey lion, once the pride of the menagerie at Versailles, and now caged in the Jardin des Plantes. This was a beautiful botanical garden, marred only, Hesdin tells us, by the presence of strolling flower girls paid by the government to keep a spying eye and keen ear trained on visitors. In this small zoo (which, along with the park, still exists today) lived the Lion, &#8216;covered with sores and infested with vermin&#8217;, a pitiful sight &#8211; more mange than mane. For a small fee visitors would be allowed in to see him, and consequently, says Hesdin, he was &#8216;tormented by the Parisian sans-cullotes <em>because he was king&#8217;. </em>This sad image seems to encapsulate both the deep fears and growing frustrations of the people of Paris at this time. The King and Queen were both dead and the revolution had brought immense change, but as people screamed at the lion and tugged his hair, it is tempting to believe they were expressing a powerful sense that the revolution was not yet complete, that it had not done what it was meant to. Its leaders had sought to stoke an ever-burning fear of enemies both within and without, and even the idea of royalty was something that had still to be not only ridiculed but also actively and continuously attacked.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s best not to get too romantic about the case of one old Lion, but I&#8217;m always searching for moments like this in history, where in one seemingly trivial anecdote everything seems to crystalise, and petty actions have the capacity to reveal what otherwise goes unspoken; ideas and emotions so powerful and complicated that perhaps only unconscious action <em>can</em> express them.</p>
<p>In the end you can interpret the story of the lion in the park in whichever way you like, but through the eyes of Raoul Hesdin, things seem bleakly clear. Shortly before his diary comes to an abrupt and unexplained end, he sums up the world he sees stretching out before him.</p>
<blockquote><p>Politics seem to be asleep, and all hope of resistance at an end; the yoke is to be eternal; the bloodshed perpetual, if men can be born fast enough to feed the fire.</p>
<p>Further Reading</p></blockquote>
<ul>
<li><em><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0554415690?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0554415690" target="_blank">The Journal of a Spy in Paris During the Reign of Terror, January-July, 1794 &#8230;</a><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0554415690" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /> A reproduction of the 1895 edition of the journal.</em></li>
<li><em><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0141017279?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0141017279" target="_blank">Citizens: A Chronicle of the French Revolution</a><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0141017279" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" />Simon Schama&#8217;s epic account, which complicates rather than simplifies the revolution (in a good way). Full of rich detail.</em></li>
<li><em><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0349115885?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0349115885">The Terror</a></em><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0349115885" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /> by David Andress<em> A probing and urgent account of the Terror, and an unusually lucid explanation of the fluctuations of revolutionary politics.</em></li>
</ul>
<p><em><em>The photograph used to illustrate this article is by Vincenzo Gianferrari Pini, and was sourced from <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org">Wikimedia Commons</a>.</em></em></p>
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