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	<title>Culture&#38;Stuff &#187; Paris</title>
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	<description>A blog about history, theatre, film, books and... stuff.</description>
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		<title>Marie Antoinette and her Children: The mystery and the history of Louis Charles in the tower. Part 2</title>
		<link>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/05/04/marie-antoinette-and-her-children-the-mystery-and-the-history-of-louis-charles-in-the-tower-part-2/</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 18:02:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Culture&#38; Stuff</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[18th Century]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Biography]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[French History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[french revolution]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[louis charles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[marie antoinette and her children]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paris]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cultureandstuff.com/?p=419</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
In part 1 of this story, we followed the rapidly deteriorating fortunes of the young Louis Charles, son of Marie Antoinette, as his family faced imprisonment in the forbidding tower of the Temple, his father, Louis XVI, was sent to the guillotine, and he was wrenched away from his mother and placed under the tutelage [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wide"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-426" title="Marie Antoinette's Son Louis Charles: death and reappearance" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/louischarlesmystery.jpg" alt="Marie Antoinette's Son Louis Charles: death and reappearance" width="751" height="220" /></div>
<p><em>In </em><a href="http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/03/10/marie-antoinette-and-her-children-the-mystery-and-the-history-of-louis-charles-in-the-tower-part-1/"><em>part 1 of this story</em></a><em>, we followed the rapidly deteriorating fortunes of the young Louis Charles, son of Marie Antoinette, as his family faced imprisonment in the forbidding tower of the Temple, his father, Louis XVI, was sent to the guillotine, and he was wrenched away from his mother and placed under the tutelage of the bitter zealot, Simon.</em></p>
<p>The story of Louis Charles was already tainted by more suffering than most people will have to endure in a lifetime, but Louis Charles was, in 1793, not yet nine years old. In the two years that remained to him, more pain would enter into the tale, and even his death marked not the end of his story, but merely the end of one chapter in what would become an epic tragedy.</p>
<p>Since we left him languishing in his cell him at the end of <a href="http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/03/10/marie-antoinette-and-her-children-the-mystery-and-the-history-of-louis-charles-in-the-tower-part-1/">part one</a>, the story has already got considerably more complicated. As described in <a href="http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/04/02/marie-antoinette-and-her-children-the-shocking-accusations-at-marie-antoinettes-trial/">this post</a>, Louis Charles had become the pawn of Jacques René Hébert, who, in order to strengthen the fairly flimsy case against Marie Antoinette, had concocted a vindictive story that Marie Antoinette had sexually abused her son.  Hébert had managed to persuade Louis Charles to sign a document supporting this allegation, and had even made the boy confront his sister and aunt with the tale. Hébert unveiled this accusation with showmanly flourish at Marie Antoinette&#8217;s trial, and though it had not had quite the galvanising impact he had hoped for, the Queen was inevitably found guilty anyway and went to her death in September 1792.</p>
<p>The situation had never been worse for Louis Charles. The deaths of his father and mother had established the clear precedent that royalty was to be totally purged from France. The very <em>idea</em> of royalty ran counter to everything the revolution stood for and was therefore extremely and actively dangerous. And at this moment the last vestige of royalty &#8211; of all its crimes and excesses , of its history and myth, of its awkwardly persistent mystery and power, and, most pressingly of all, of its ancient bloodline &#8211; resided in the increasingly frail and filthy body of the young Louis Charles. Yet, as we saw in part 1, things weren&#8217;t quite this simple. Revolutionary France suffered from something of a PR problem, with most of Europe deriding the revolution as obscene and bestial, and several key areas of France itself engaged in open and bitter revolt. It just wouldn&#8217;t do to add child-murder to the list of the revolution&#8217;s more unsavoury habits, especially when the child in question had in the past proved effortlessly but powerfully capable of winning the sympathy of the public.</p>
<p>There was, however, a clear justification for keeping this king-in-waiting under lock and key. Exiled monarchist sympathisers would flock to fight under the banner of the would-be Louis XVII if he was ever allowed to go abroad and the revolution would have another enemy to fight. No, the only option was to keep him in prison. And as everyone knew, the prisons of Paris were brutal, squalid holes, where death by natural causes deprived Madame Guillotine of many cherished appointments. Here then, was the plan. Louis Charles&#8217; milk-pale body was made for mirrored palaces and manicured gardens, not prisons. There was no need for a messy murder. Left alone, purposefully neglected, Louis Charles would soon sicken. Nature would do the job herself.</p>
<p>Initially, the plan worked just as it was supposed to. Since Louis Charles was now of very little use to political manipulators such as Hébert, he was largely ignored. Even Simon, Louis Charles&#8217; former guard and co-conspirator of Hébert, left the prison in early 1794 to focus on his post at the Commune. Now, even the project to &#8216;re-educate&#8217; Louis Charles in revolutionary ideals was abandoned, and the sole priority was to prevent any escape or rescue. He was placed in solitary confinement, probably in the very room where he had last seen his father. The room had always been cold and dark, and was now modified with the addition of strong bars and grates. His sole contact with any human being was when his meagre food was shoved into the room through a small slot. There were no openings to allow Louis Charles to glimpse the world beyond the ten foot thick walls that surrounded him, and at night he was allowed no candle to break the darkness. In May 1794, Robespierre visited the prison to inspect conditions. Louis Charles&#8217; sister Marie-Thérèse desperately handed him a note, begging to be allowed to look after her brother. The request was ignored.</p>
<p>Louis Charles was now to all intents and purposes forgotten, as events outside the prison reduced the Prince to an irrelevance. The Terror reached its chaotic pitch, as first Hébert. then Danton, then Robespierre himself were overtaken and sent to the guillotine. Lurking somewhere in the group of prisoners who climbed the scaffold with Robespierre was Simon, his revolutionary career having proven to be only the last in a long line of failures. Throughout these turbulent months, Louis Charles endured an animal existence in the shadows.</p>
<p>In the wake of Robespierre&#8217;s downfall, a flicker of humanity briefly illuminated the boy&#8217;s plight. General Barras, who was now placed in charge of the royal children, paid a visit to the Temple and was shocked by what he saw. In Louis Charles&#8217; cell he found a truly broken child. His limbs were swollen with angry tumours and he was covered in sores. His eyes seemed empty and dead, he could not walk and would not speak. He spent his days huddled in a tiny cot, presumably to put some small distance between him and the filth that was piling up on the floor of his cell.</p>
<p>Barras seems to have been moved to help the boy, and eventually a new guardian, Jean-Jacques Christophe Laurent, was appointed. Laurent was a young Creole from Martinique, whose compassion and kindness stands out in this otherwise inkily grim tale. He was determined to bring Louis Charles&#8217; sufferings to light, at some risk to his own prospects, insisting the Commune examine his case and demanding the right to be allowed in to clean Louis Charles&#8217; cell for the first time in many months. Louis Charles was also washed, and his lice-ridden hair and claw-like nails were cut. Though he was allowed very limited time with the boy, Laurent was kind to him, calling him &#8216;Monsieur Charles&#8217;, rather than the barrage of insults he had been used to. After so many months of cruelty and isolation, Louis Charles recoiled suspiciously at this treatment, asking him &#8216;Why are you taking care of me? I thought you didn&#8217;t like me&#8217;, before retreating once again into silence.</p>
<p>By February 1795, it was becoming clear that Louis Charles was dying, yet still it was three months before any doctor was permitted to see him. Finally, Dr Pierre Joseph Desault arrived at the Bastille on 6 May. Despite the danger of doing so (two journalists had recently been arrested for speaking out about Louis Charles&#8217; treatment), Desault was from the start free in his condemnation.</p>
<blockquote><p>I encountered a child who is mad, dying, a victim of the most abject misery and the greatest abandonment, a being who has been brutalised by the cruellest of treatments and whom it is impossible for me to bring back to life&#8230; What a crime!</p></blockquote>
<p>He insisted that Louis Charles be allowed to take air and exercise, and provided him with toys. The pair seem quickly to have formed a trusting, even, in its muted way, affectionate relationship. Then, after a public dinner, Desault complained of severe stomach pains, and died three days later. Rumours rapidly circulated that he had been poisoned, which seemed all the more likely given that two of his assistants also died suddenly soon afterwards.</p>
<p>Though another doctor was appointed, it was too late for Louis Charles, who died in the night on 8 June 1795, at the age of 12. The story is a squalid one; a simple tale of neglect with all too much cruelty and all too little heroism. But, like the long lines of kings before him, the death of Louis Charles marked merely the passing of history into legend, and before long rumours began circulating that Louis Charles had not died at all, that he had somehow been smuggled out of the Temple and had not suffered that ignominious end. A far more palatable romance quickly took the place of the sordid reality, and before long, a string of claimants to the throne of Louis Charles would start to emerge in the unlikeliest of places. For that story, come back next time.</p>
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		<title>Is Paris Burning: Did a German General save the City of Light?</title>
		<link>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/02/12/is-paris-burning-did-a-german-general-save-the-city-of-light/</link>
		<comments>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/02/12/is-paris-burning-did-a-german-general-save-the-city-of-light/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Feb 2010 09:30:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Culture&#38; Stuff</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[20th Century]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[French History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Historical Places]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paris]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[world war 2]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cultureandstuff.com/?p=264</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
In February 1943, there was nothing in Stalingrad but the ghost of a city. The scale of the battle that had raged for the past seven months was so unimaginable that it is nearly impossible to talk about it without resorting to empty cliché. There are the figures, of course &#8211; 850,000 Axis casualties, 1.1 [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wide"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-265" title="Von Choltitz in Paris" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/isparisburningtop.jpg" alt="How German General von Choltitz saved Paris" width="751" height="220" /></div>
<p>In February 1943, there was nothing in Stalingrad but the ghost of a city. The scale of the battle that had raged for the past seven months was so unimaginable that it is nearly impossible to talk about it without resorting to empty cliché. There are the figures, of course &#8211; 850,000 Axis casualties, 1.1 million Soviet &#8211; which make this a strong contender for the title of deadliest battle in human history. But such numbers are incomprehensible in any real sense. The further you sub-divide these overarching statistics, to reveal, for example,the 40,000 Soviet civilians killed in one week of bombing, or the 13,500 Soviet soldiers executed by their own leaders during the fighting, the more you seem to be able to glimpse the hell of the battle.</p>
<p>In November of 1943, a plane flew over Stalingrad carrying Soviet diplomats journeying to meet their British and American counterparts. One passenger, Valentin Berezhkov, recorded what he saw.</p>
<blockquote><p>We pressed to the windows in silence&#8230; First individual houses scattered in the snow came into view, and then a kind of unbelievable chaos began: lumps of walls, boxes of half-ruined buildings, piles of rubble, isolated chimneys&#8230; Visible against the snow were the black figures of people&#8230;&#8217;</p></blockquote>
<p>Flash forward to Paris on 25th August 1944. Anyone flying over this city on that day would have witnessed a very different scene. Paris is still there. Damaged, certainly, and neglected, but still quintessentially and recognisably herself. From the window of the plane, you can still see barricades, trenches dug into the streets, trees felled on the boulevards. Many buildings are riddled with bullet holes, and the elegant, graceful Grand Palais is smouldering. But the battle has been won in only six days, and though several thousand people died in the fiercest fighting, the contrast between the liberation of Paris and the battle for Stalingrad could hardly be more marked.</p>
<p>This, unsurprisingly, was not part of Hitler&#8217;s plan. The Führer had several times issued orders that Paris must not be abandoned without a fight to the death. On 23rd August, he commanded,</p>
<blockquote><p>The city must not fall into the enemy&#8217;s hand except lying in complete debris.</p></blockquote>
<p>Explosives had been primed in strategic and iconic locations around Paris, to ensure that if the Germans were forced to withdraw, they would leave nothing behind.</p>
<p>So why was this plan never carried out &#8211; who saved Paris? Since the day of liberation, two divergent versions of what happened in Paris that August have emerged, that go right to the heart of the many myths that flock around Paris and its liberation like moths around candlelight.</p>
<div class="vert">
<div id="attachment_275" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 250px"><img class="size-full wp-image-275 " title="General Von Choltitz: Saviour of Paris?" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/generalvoncholtitzsavedparis.jpg" alt="General Von Choltitz: Saviour of Paris?" width="240" height="362" /><p class="wp-caption-text">General von Choltitz</p></div>
</div>
<p>The first is, at base, your classic Parisian love story, with an unlikely leading man in the shape of German General Dietrich von Choltitz. Von Choltitz became the governor of Paris on 7th August 1944, and was the man responsible for carrying out Hitler&#8217;s orders, even (according to legend) receiving a screaming phone call from the Führer, demanding &#8216;<em>Brennt Paris?</em>&#8216; (Is Paris Burning?). There was nothing in von Cholitz&#8217;s past to suggest that he would do anything other than follow these orders to the letter. In 1940 and 41 both Sevastopol and Rotterdam were destroyed on von Cholitz&#8217;s orders.  He apparently had no qualms about executing Resistance fighters in Paris, and, in a conversation secretly recorded whilst he was being held as a prisoner of war, von Choltitz admitted &#8220;executing the most difficult order of my life in Russia, (&#8230;) liquidation of the Jews. I have executed this order in its entirety nonetheless&#8230;&#8221;. He also issued the order to burn the Grand Palais on 23rd August 1944.</p>
<p>But on 25th August, von Cholitz surrendered Paris to the Allies, in direct contravention of his orders. None of the explosives had been detonated. And when De Gaulle paraded down the Champs-Élysées, it was through a sea of smiling faces, not the blackened wasteland of Hitler&#8217;s directives. So can it be that, at some pivotal moment, von Choltitz simply could not bring himself to carry out his orders, deciding he&#8217;d rather betray his leaders and surrender than see Paris destroyed? This is the version of events suggested by von Choltitz&#8217;s son, who claimed that his father realised the war was lost, and decided to prevent unnecessary bloodshed and destruction to the city. This idea is tempting, romantic even, but surely wide of the mark. In von Choltitz&#8217;s own account, he stated simply<em> </em></p>
<blockquote><p>If for the first time I had disobeyed, it was because I knew that Hitler was insane</p></blockquote>
<p>Moreover, an experienced military man like von Choltitz would have recognised how disastrous Stalingrad had been for all sides, and seen the value in avoiding a repeat of those events.</p>
<p>The alternative version of events refuses to give con Choltitz even this much credit. Resistance member Maurice Kriegel-Valrimont argued in 2004 that von Choltitz wrought us much death and destruction on Paris and its citizens as he could, &#8220;and when he ceased to kill them it was because he wasn&#8217;t able to do so any longer&#8221;. Kriegel-Valrimont shudders at any attempt to paint von Choltitz as the saviour of Paris, and insists that it was Pierre Taittinger, chairman of the municipal council, who convinced him not to detonate the explosives around the city.</p>
<p>Two very different stories then. In one, a hardened Nazi is struck all too late by the futility and insanity of the war he has fought, and adds his name to the long list of Parisian heroes. In the other, the Parisians themselves are solely responsible for throwing off the rule of their alien, resented occupiers, who sought nothing but their destruction right up to the end. The truth must inevitably be found somewhere between the two. Von Choltitz was certainly no romantic hero, and it seems highly unlikely that he sought to &#8217;save&#8217; Paris for its own sake. More likely, this practical man genuinely did realise that Hitler&#8217;s time was coming to an end, and determined to get things over with as quietly and efficiently as possible. But despite the legitimate protestations of many French historians, the fact remains that there must, surely, have been a window of opportunity for von Choltitz to carry out his orders, press that button and set off explosions all over Paris. That button was never pressed &#8211; that&#8217;s the fact, cold and undeniable, and the legacy of some combination of the actions of both von Choltitz and those Parisians who fought for their city.</p>
<p>So the brilliant, uniform beauty of Paris remained, the City of Light apparently undimmed. But even as De Gaulle marched triumphantly down the Champs-Élysées, and the crackly sound of the <em>Marseillaise</em> once again echoed down the streets after four forbidden years, a process of soul-searching and recrimination was already beginning. There were some deeply unpleasant questions that needed to be asked about the last few years. Why had it taken so long for Paris to shake off its occupiers? Had life in Paris under the Germans been a bit too easy? Most troubling of all &#8211; who had collaborated? Deep down, had <em>everyone</em> collaborated? These questions were made all the more uncomfortable by the unavoidable comparisons between still-dazzling Paris and the scenes of devastation in many of the other cities of Europe. German occupation may have ended, but the damage and pain it could inflict on Paris and Parisians had not disappeared with von Choltitz.</p>
<p>I think I feel another post coming on&#8230;</p>
<blockquote><p>Further Reading</p></blockquote>
<p>Paris</p>
<ul>
<li><em><strong><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0140282920?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0140282920">Paris: Biography of a City</a> </strong></em><strong>by Colin Jones</strong><em><strong><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0140282920" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /> </strong></em>Superb, detailed and comprehensive history of the city, from before it was even Paris to modern times.</li>
<li><em><strong><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0141011130?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0141011130">Paris: The Secret History</a><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0141011130" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /> </strong></em><strong>by Andrew Hussey </strong>A more social take on the history of Paris, with plenty of evocative detail.</li>
</ul>
<p>Stalingrad</p>
<ul>
<li><em><strong><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0141032405?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0141032405">Stalingrad</a><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0141032405" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /> by Antony Beevor</strong></em><strong> </strong>As big, clever and moving as popular history gets.</li>
</ul>
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		<title>A King of Beasts in Revolutionary Paris</title>
		<link>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/01/22/a-king-of-beasts-in-revolutionary-paris/</link>
		<comments>http://cultureandstuff.com/2010/01/22/a-king-of-beasts-in-revolutionary-paris/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 Jan 2010 16:28:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Culture&#38; Stuff</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[18th Century]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Animals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[British History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[French History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paris]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Royal History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[18th century]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[french revolution]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cultureandstuff.com/?p=116</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
I&#8217;ve just started reading the eclectic and lively Georgian London blog, and came across this piece about the menagerie at the Tower of London, which existed in various forms from 1252 until its closure in 1835, at which point its collection of animal inhabitants formed the basis for London Zoo.
The story of the menagerie (once [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wide"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-117" title="The story of an old lion in revolutionary Paris" src="http://cultureandstuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/liontop.jpg" alt="" width="751" height="220" /></div>
<p><!-- 		@page { margin: 2cm } 		P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } -->I&#8217;ve just started reading the eclectic and lively <a href="http://www.georgianlondon.com/" target="_blank">Georgian London</a> blog, and came across <a href="http://www.georgianlondon.com/crowly-who-is-now-grown-a-great-lion-and-very" target="_blank">this piece</a> about the menagerie at the Tower of London, which existed in various forms from 1252 until its closure in 1835, at which point its collection of animal inhabitants formed the basis for London Zoo.</p>
<p>The story of the menagerie (once you&#8217;ve managed to disable those parts of your brain sensitive to modern notions of health and safety, animal cruelty and basic common sense) is a dizzying carnival of unlikely experiences, which range from the sublimely ridiculous to the ridculously sublime. Picture, for example, the first resident of the menagerie; a polar bear, given as a gift from the King of Norway to the King of England. Although presumably fluffy, small and adorable to begin with (perhaps wrapped in a little bow), the gift soon grew into an almighty, boulder-pawed beast (as polar bears are so wont to do). Too large now for his strolls around the Tower, he was sent with his keeper to swim and catch fish in the river Thames.</p>
<p>This curious incident of the bear and his swim time seems to have set the tone for the menagerie, and as the delightful stories keep coming, the greater a tragedy it seems that there was no historical equivalent of Ben Fogle and Kate Humble to record them all in a sort of proto-<em>Animal Park</em>. Other residents of the Tower menagerie included Old Martin, the bear who put the grizzly back into grizzly bear, a lonely mongoose, monkeys bedecked in fine costumes, a plague of kangaroos (which apparently spread to other parts of England, until it was not at all uncommon to see kangaroos roaming around in parks) an elephant with a penchant for wine and a belligerent, beer-swilling zebra, who by all accounts was a much friendlier drunk.</p>
<p>There were also many Lions in the menagerie, whose chorus of roars at dawn came incongruously to mark the start of the day at the Tower of London. This put me in mind of another lion from another menagerie, whose wretched story is painfully revealing of the tensions and ironies that practically hummed in the air of revolutionary Paris.</p>
<p>This story is told in <em>The Journal of a Spy in Paris During the Reign of Terror</em>, a fascinating document which purports to have been recorded by one Raoul Hesdin (no doubt an assumed name), an English spy working for the French Government during the first half of 1794. No record can be found of anyone of this name in the employ of the government at the time, but the work rings with truth, and it seems safe to say that whoever he was, he was in Paris at the time, and in some position that gave him close access to the Committee of Public Safety, and all the important goings-on in this tumultuous period.</p>
<p>But despite this elevated position, it is the personal perspective offered by the journal that makes it such a fascinating and valuable source. The study of the revolution can so easily get bogged down in valiant attempts to chart and explain the ever-changing, immensely complicated shifts in the political tides, at the expense of an understanding of what it actually felt like to be an individual living through the vast impersonal processes of the Terror, of people&#8217;s perceptions of what was happening and where it was all leading, and ultimately what the point of it all was.</p>
<p>It seems that Hesdin once had some enthusiasm for the revolution, and was perhaps even swept up in its very early phases. In the time since then, however, this enthusiasm has clearly softened, waned and ultimately reversed upon itself. By early February 1794, he writes,</p>
<blockquote><p>I have little heart in such scenes for the compilation of a regular journal; if there were the least chance of my obtaining employment elsewhere or a passport to leave, I would leave this hideous shambles to-morrow. I am here to discover the secrets of a Government which has none, to unriddle mysteries when everything is but too patent, to assign causes to affects when <em>famine, hideous famine</em>, is the cause of everything. At times I console myself with the thought that I am taking part in a piece that will one day be read and re-read on History&#8217;s page &#8211; if, indeed, all History be not destroyed and the End of all things come.</p></blockquote>
<p>What seems to pain Hesdin most is the transformation that has taken hold of Paris, a city which once had clearly bewitched and entranced him, in a way that Paris through the ages seems to have had a unique capacity to do.</p>
<blockquote><p>I walked today under the chestnuts for an hour&#8230; The contrast to my youthful recollections of Paris moved me almost to tears. Nothing but the eternal white dust of the streets remains the same&#8230;</p>
<p>The ferment of minds in the salons, clubs, and coffee-houses, above all in the streets, was indescribable. People literally lived in the open air those two summers, and in &#8216;89 at every moment were seen horsemen dashing in with news from the Court or the Assembly at Versailles; orators declaiming on every chair and balustrade on the terrace. Now it is the silence of the grave</p></blockquote>
<p>He tells us of dance halls banned by the government, but which continued anyway in secret, shifting from place to place each night to avoid detection. He watches as great books and priceless pictures sell for nothing, all vestiges of the past having &#8216;become objects of derision&#8217;. Most chillingly, he one day observes that guillotinings have become so much a part of the day that guards have had to be posted at the scaffolds to stop children from playing on it.</p>
<p>In the middle of all this comes the tale of an old grey lion, once the pride of the menagerie at Versailles, and now caged in the Jardin des Plantes. This was a beautiful botanical garden, marred only, Hesdin tells us, by the presence of strolling flower girls paid by the government to keep a spying eye and keen ear trained on visitors. In this small zoo (which, along with the park, still exists today) lived the Lion, &#8216;covered with sores and infested with vermin&#8217;, a pitiful sight &#8211; more mange than mane. For a small fee visitors would be allowed in to see him, and consequently, says Hesdin, he was &#8216;tormented by the Parisian sans-cullotes <em>because he was king&#8217;. </em>This sad image seems to encapsulate both the deep fears and growing frustrations of the people of Paris at this time. The King and Queen were both dead and the revolution had brought immense change, but as people screamed at the lion and tugged his hair, it is tempting to believe they were expressing a powerful sense that the revolution was not yet complete, that it had not done what it was meant to. Its leaders had sought to stoke an ever-burning fear of enemies both within and without, and even the idea of royalty was something that had still to be not only ridiculed but also actively and continuously attacked.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s best not to get too romantic about the case of one old Lion, but I&#8217;m always searching for moments like this in history, where in one seemingly trivial anecdote everything seems to crystalise, and petty actions have the capacity to reveal what otherwise goes unspoken; ideas and emotions so powerful and complicated that perhaps only unconscious action <em>can</em> express them.</p>
<p>In the end you can interpret the story of the lion in the park in whichever way you like, but through the eyes of Raoul Hesdin, things seem bleakly clear. Shortly before his diary comes to an abrupt and unexplained end, he sums up the world he sees stretching out before him.</p>
<blockquote><p>Politics seem to be asleep, and all hope of resistance at an end; the yoke is to be eternal; the bloodshed perpetual, if men can be born fast enough to feed the fire.</p>
<p>Further Reading</p></blockquote>
<ul>
<li><em><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0554415690?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0554415690" target="_blank">The Journal of a Spy in Paris During the Reign of Terror, January-July, 1794 &#8230;</a><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0554415690" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /> A reproduction of the 1895 edition of the journal.</em></li>
<li><em><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0141017279?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0141017279" target="_blank">Citizens: A Chronicle of the French Revolution</a><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0141017279" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" />Simon Schama&#8217;s epic account, which complicates rather than simplifies the revolution (in a good way). Full of rich detail.</em></li>
<li><em><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0349115885?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cultstuf-21&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=0349115885">The Terror</a></em><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=cultstuf-21&amp;l=as2&amp;o=2&amp;a=0349115885" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /> by David Andress<em> A probing and urgent account of the Terror, and an unusually lucid explanation of the fluctuations of revolutionary politics.</em></li>
</ul>
<p><em><em>The photograph used to illustrate this article is by Vincenzo Gianferrari Pini, and was sourced from <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org">Wikimedia Commons</a>.</em></em></p>
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